By Bettyann Moore
Porpoise McAllister was
the only boy at Dailyville High who elected to take cooking class
instead of auto mechanics in his junior year.
“Always knew you were
a freak, McAllister,” Troy Jones, the captain of the football team
scoffed.
“Gonna make tiny
cakes for tea parties?” a kid in chemistry teased, miming sipping
tea with his pinkie in the air.
“Wouldn’t you like
to know,” Porpoise always answered with a mysterious smile.
The fact of the matter
was that there wasn’t much more for Porpoise to learn about vehicle
maintenance. He’d been taking apart cars, tractors, mowers and
combines on the family farm since he was big enough to hold a wrench
– and putting them back together again. When he wasn’t working on
the farm, he was working on the things that kept the farm working.
The thought of spending part of his time at school doing the same
held no thrall. Cooking, though, that was different.
It was nothing short of
magic to the boy when his mother or his grandmother created hearty
farm meals day after day. A little bit of flour and some of this and
that – voila! – a tall birthday cake for a growing boy. A hen
that had been clucking in his grandmother McAllister’s chicken coop
at breakfast was transformed into delectable fried chicken by lunch.
The McAllister women were conjurers of a high order. Porpoise wanted
to be one, too.
“You got no business
in a class like that!” Grandpa McAllister roared. “Brian,” he
said, turning to his son, “you gonna let this happen?”
At one point in his
son’s life, Porpoise’s dad would have railed just as long and
loudly as his father, but he’d learned a thing or two since then.
It was, he knew now, important for the boy to figure out who and what
he was on his own – and have his family’s support while he did
it.
“It’s all right,
Pop,” Brian said, passing the mashed potatoes around his mother’s
dinner table. “Porpoise has his reasons, don’t you, boy?” He
winked at his son.
“What possible reason
...” John McAllister stopped and considered. “Oh!” he said, his
face lighting up. “Girls! Lots of girls in them classes I bet!”
“All girls and
Porpoise,” Thea, Porpoise’s mother said, bringing more beets to
the table. Margaret, his grandmother, followed close behind carrying
a pitcher of fresh milk.
“Well, I’ll be
danged,” Grandpa McAllister said, nodding thoughtfully. “If that
don’t beat all.”
Porpoise kept his head
down and kept shoveling his grandmother’s good food into his mouth.
He couldn’t wait to get to the apple pie, his favorite. Let them
think what they want to think.
“I don’t know,”
Margaret said, settling back into her chair. “What do you know
about cooking?” she asked, turning to her grandson.
“Numuh,” Porpoise
replied.
“Sweetie, don’t
talk with your mouthful,” his mother scolded. “What’d you say?”
Porpoise took a long
drink of milk to wash down the potatoes. “I said ‘not much’,
but that’s what class is for.”
“I suppose … who
teaches the class anyway,” his grandmother asked.
“Mrs. Hoyt,”
Porpoise said, taking another helping of roast beef.
“Oh, lands, not Elna
Hoyt!” Margaret cried, her hand on her heart. “That woman
couldn’t cook her way out of a paper bag, I swear! Do you remember
that ghastly casserole she entered in the county fair that year?”
she asked, turning to her daughter-in-law.
“It was … a bit
unusual,” Thea, ever the diplomat, replied.
“Unusual! It tasted
like soap and shoe leather!” Margaret harrumphed.
“The class will be
doing the cooking, Gram,” Porpoise said, “not Mrs. Hoyt.”
“But she’ll be
teaching you all wrong!”
“Now, Margaret,”
her husband cautioned. “That’s not a very Christian thing to
say.”
Margaret reddened. She
always knew her husband was a little sweet on Elna Hoyt. Still, she
could be a little kinder.
“Well, dear,” she
said, patting Porpoise’s hand, “If you need any help, you know
who to come to.”
“Yep,” Porpoise
said, smiling, “Ma.”
“Oh, you scamp!”
Margaret said, swatting the boy’s arm. “Of course your mother’s
a wonderful cook,” she added hurriedly. “After she married your
father, I taught her everything I know.”
Thea rolled her eyes.
“Not everything, Mother,” she said. “A robber with a loaded gun
to your head couldn’t get half of your ‘secret recipes’ out of
you.”
“Seriously, Gram, you
have secret recipes?”
Margaret patted her
already neat hair into place. “Just a few,” she said, “handed
down from my mother’s mother’s mother.”
Thea rolled her eyes
again. “A few?” She started ticking them off on her fingers.
“Your steak marinade, your chicken and dumplings, your chocolate
sheet cake, your beef stew, your apple pie ...”
“Speaking of pie,”
Margaret said, eager to change the subject, “who wants pie?”
Maggie McAllister,
known to follow behind her husband with a wet mop when he came in
from the barn, and who dusted and vacuumed every single day, even
when her hip joints were screaming in pain, found cleanliness next to
godliness. It wasn’t a matter of pride, it was just something one
did. When it came to cooking, though, Maggie was proud, a bit
secretive and, at times, downright boastful. If her pies won the blue
ribbon at the county fair every year for 30 years running, it was as
it should be, she felt. If Father Dolan begged her to head up the
annual church potluck each year – featuring her fried chicken –
well, the man was God’s instrument on earth, was he not? Who would
know better?
Maggie wouldn’t know
a persimmon from a pomegranet or a shitake from a portobella, but she
didn’t need to; they didn’t fit into her style of cooking. There
was nothing, she felt, that anyone could teach her about food. And up
until then, no one had challenged her on that.
The cooking class was
at the end of the day, which was perfect as far as Porpoise was
concerned because that’s when he was always the hungriest. On the
first day of class he shuffled into the room and took a chair at one
of the tables in the back. There were two tables for four students
who would share a “kitchen” with cupboards, counter, stove,
fridge and sink. The room could accommodate 20 students. The girls
who were in the room had already paired up; Porpoise sat alone.
“Hey, Porpoise,”
one of the girls said, elbowing her partner, “you take a wrong turn
at the Ag room or something?”
Porpoise made a
mock-confused face and looked wildly around. “This is Animal
Husbandry 101, isn’t it?” he shot back. The girls laughed, but
not unkindly.
Mrs. Hoyt, dressed in a
uniformly gray skirt, twin-set and pearls, came in then and eyed the
boy sitting in the back of the room. “Young man,” she said, “this
is Foods Class ...”
“Yes, thank you,”
Porpoise said, settling back into his chair.
The woman scanned her
class list. There he was: Gerald McAllister. I knew I should have
taken early retirement, she thought. She stowed her purse in a
cupboard and started pulling out various utensils, pots and pans. The
bell rang as she put the last of the items on the counter in front of
her; Mrs. Hoyt didn’t use a desk and she never sat down during
class.
“Welcome, class,”
she said, then stopped as a colorful blur burst into the room and
scurried to the last chair, the one next to Porpoise. Mrs. Hoyt gave
the new arrival her best evil eye.
“Tardiness,” she
said loudly enough for all to hear, “is not tolerated in this
class. Miss, uh ...”
All eyes turned toward
the platinum blond who had arrived in a cloud of White Diamonds
perfume who was now searching for a place to put her numerous books.
She stopped when she realized that everyone was looking at her.
“Who, me?” she
said. “April, April Showers.” She scanned the room with hard
eyes, daring anyone to laugh. No one did. “I’m new. From SoCal.”
As if she needed to
add that, Elna Hoyt thought. The creature was dressed in a long,
brightly patterned peasant skirt, topped by an embroidered gauzy
white blouse that dipped much too provocatively off the shoulder. She
seemed to be wearing sandals. Her (obviously dyed) blond hair flowed
down her back. It had little braids woven throughout it. In all her
years of teaching, Elna had never set eyes on someone like her,
outside of Madison, that is. Why, oh why hadn’t she retired? She
cleared her throat.
“Yes, well, Miss
Showers, I’m sure you won’t be tardy again. I will now take
roll.”
“Whoa, what’s up
with the stiff?” April whispered close to Porpoise’s ear. He
nearly swooned from her perfume and her nearness.
“I think she’s been
teaching since the Pleistocene Era,” he whispered back, careful not
to let Mrs. Hoyt catch him.
April hooted, drawing a
long, silencing look from Mrs. Hoyt.
“Gerald McAllister?”
“Here!” Porpoise
piped up, then mumbled, “As if you didn’t know.”
“Wow,” April said,
looking around. “You’re, like, the only boy in here, Gerald.”
“Everyone calls me
Porpoise.”
“Porpoise? Like the
fish? Crazy.”
“They’re mammals,
actually, April Showers,” Porpoise said pointedly.
April gave him a look,
then smiled. “I think it’s cool that you want to cook, Porpoise,”
she said. “Any guy I hook up with better know how to cook because I
like to eat!”
Porpoise blushed
crimson. Did she really just say hook up? he wondered. He
thought maybe he was falling in love.
The weeks went by and
even though Porpoise looked forward to seeing April in class, he was
less happy about the class itself. Two weeks in and they still hadn’t
learned to cook anything more than rice. The rest of the time was
spent on learning kitchen equipment names and uses, cooking terms
like rolling boil and saute, how to sharpen knives, how to set a
table and lots and lots of stuff about cleanliness and safety.
More than ever before,
Porpoise wanted to learn how to cook. He fantasized about creating
dish after incredible dish … all for April. Her eyes would grow
wide with admiration as he set each one before her at a perfectly set
dinner table, china and silverware gleaming in candlelight.
Appetizer, soup, salad, entree … topped off by a gooey, but
sophisticated, dessert.
None of the dishes he
served to April in his daydreams had names or form. They were
complex, he knew that, sometimes involving the use of a blowtorch
(he’d seen that on a TV show once), and certain to dazzle April in
prep, presentation and taste.
“Do you want to come
over for dinner one night? I’ll cook for you,” Porpoise blurted
out one day in class as he and April worked side-by-side at the sink
learning proper dish washing techniques.
“Seriously?” April
said, her eyes wide. “You would do that?”
It was too late to back
down. What the heck was he thinking? “Sure, no problem!” he said,
mind racing.
“We haven’t exactly
learned anything here,” April reminded him.
Porpoise waved a sudsy
hand in the air. “I cook with my mom all the time,” he declared.
It was sort of true. She let him chop vegetables once in a while.
“That’s, like,
really cool, Porpoise. I’d like that. No one’s ever cooked for me
before.” Now it was April’s turn to blush.
Porpoise washed a few
more already-clean dishes, his head filled with visions of that
perfect meal and April’s perfect response to it.
“So, when?”
“What?” April’s
question startled him out of his reverie. “Oh, uh, I’ll have to
see what works for my mom and dad … a week from Saturday maybe?”
It was Monday. That would give him almost two weeks to plan … and
to practice.
“Gram! Gramma!”
Porpoise barreled into his grandparents’ house on a mission.
“Whoa!” Margaret
cried, nearly getting knocked over by her six foot grandson. “Where’s
the fire?”
“Gram, Gram, you have
to help,” Porpoise wheezed, out of breath. He waved a sheet of
paper in the air, a rudimentary menu he’d come up with. “Food, I
need food!”
“Did your mother run
out?” his grandmother teased. “Sit yourself down, I’ll get you
some food. PB&J? Some leftover pie?”
“No … I mean, yeah,
some leftover pie would be good, but that’s not it.” Porpoise
took some deep breaths and sat at his familiar place at his
grandparents’ table.
Maggie McAllister
seldom saw her grandson in such a state. She sliced off a large piece
of cherry pie, poured some milk and set it in front of the boy. She
had dinner to see to, but her grandson needed her. She took a sliver
of pie for herself and settled her bulk into a chair at the table. By
the time she lifted her fork, Porpoise was licking his plate clean.
“I swear, you’re
the eatingest boy I ever laid eyes on,” Maggie said. “Now what’s
all the fuss about?”
Porpoise gulped down
the last of his milk and swiped a sleeve across his mouth. Margaret
made a “tsking” sound between her teeth.
“There’s this girl,
see,” he began, “I want to cook dinner for her.”
Maggie kept her
composure. Porpoise had never shown any interest in girls before.
“That’s wonderful,
sweetie! I’m sure some of my tried and true recipes will suit
nicely ...”
Porpoise waved the
sheet of paper again. “Thanks, Gram, but I went through Mom’s Joy
of Cooking and something called Mastering the Art of French
Cooking and I made a menu,” he said. “It’s just that I need
your help to make it all. You’re the best, Gram. You’re like a
magician in the kitchen.”
Maggie tried not to
show how preturbed she was; the boy did compliment her after all, but
what was wrong with her recipes? What was wrong with a good country
ham with potatoes? Mastering the Art of French Cooking indeed.
Fancy-shmancy falderol.
“Cooking’s not
magic, exactly,” she said, “old recipes play an important part
...” She saw the crestfallen look on her grandson’s face and
rallied. “But, of course, sweetie, I’ll help any way I can.”
“Great, Gram, thanks!
I really want to impress April,” Porpoise said, blushing a little.
“April, that’s a
lovely name, dear,” Gram said, “what’s her family name?”
“Showers, April
Showers,” Porpoise replied reverently. “They just moved here from
California.”
Seeing the look on her
grandson’s face, Maggie kept her chuckle in. “I’m sure she’s
a lovely girl. Now, let’s see this menu of yours.”
Porpoise handed the
sheet to his grandmother, whose eyes went big as saucers when she saw
the list.
Appetizer: Jambon
Chevre
Soup: Lobster bisque
Salad: Tomato Feta
Entree: Duck Confit
with Pommes Frites
Dessert: Creme Brulee
Lobster … tomato …
duck. Maggie knew those words, but what the heck, she wondered, is a
confit? It sounded like a feminine hygiene product. Or Pomme Frites?
Did they rhyme? None of it made any sense to her. Surely Porpoise was
pulling her leg. She looked up at his eager face, though, and knew he
wasn’t.
“So, you can do it,
right, Gram?” he asked. “You can teach me how to make these?”
Maggie’s reputation
and pride were at stake. “Um … wow, honey, these look awfully
ambitious for your first time ...” The statement was probably
correct given that Maggie had no clue what any of them were.
Porpoise’s face fell.
“But, Gram, you’re a wizard at this and we have almost two weeks
to practice!”
Without admitting that
she had no clue how to make any of the dishes, Maggie latched onto
anything she could.
“Lobster, though,
Porpoise! Do you know how much lobster costs?”
“Gram,” Porpoise
reminded her, “I’ve been getting paid for working on the farm
since I was six and haven’t spent a penny! I’ll make a shopping
list and I’ll go to the store and buy everything we need.”
“I don’t think
Thompson’s Market carries lobster ...”
“So, I’ll drive to
Madison … Milwaukee, if I have to! I just want it to be perfect.”
How could she say no?
She glanced down at the paper. “Let’s start small,” she said.
“Sort of ease into it. We can try the salad first … the tomato
thing.” She didn’t want to risk saying “feta” – whatever
that was – incorrectly.
“Cool, Gram, you’re
the best!” Porpoise stood up and gave his grandmother a bear hug.
“I better go talk to mom and dad, though, to see if next Saturday
is okay, and make my shopping list!”
“You do that and I’ll
get my dinner started.” Was it bad of Maggie to wish that his
parents would tell him no? “Here,” she said, “give me the menu
and I’ll copy it down. I don’t want to forget!”
Fairly certain she
wouldn’t find any of the recipes in her collection of spiral-bound
church and county fair cookbooks, Maggie headed to her husband’s
computer. He used it to keep track of soybean prices, to send email
and play some sort of alien blaster game. Although she knew how to
turn it on and get to the Google, Margaret McAllister wasn’t one to
waste her precious time on such machines. She needed it today,
though.
First she typed in
“feta” and found out that it was a cheese. Cheese she could
handle. Why didn’t they just say that? It was crumbly and aged,
probably a lot like blue cheese, she thought. Then she typed in
“Tomato Feta Salad.”
“Oh my lands!” she
cried. “There’s thousands of recipes!” She scanned the first
page and clicked on the one that said “easy”. Wonderful, she was
familiar with all of the ingredients, except the feta. Porpoise could
take care of that. It looked simple and claimed to only take 20
minutes to make. Doable, definitely doable.
She moved onto the
bisque. In her mind she pronounced it “bis-kay,” which made her
think it was some sort of biscuit (her biscuits were famouse
hereabouts), but it didn’t make sense given that it was listed as a
soup. While Maggie never cottoned to taking short cuts in her
cooking, or anything for that matter, once again she clicked on
“easy,” though totally amazed at the sheer number of recipes
available.
She gave it a
read-through, it sounded quite good, actually, but she stopped at the
word “deglaze.” They needed to “deglaze” the pan with white
wine. What? Make it so it doesn’t shine? She opened another window
and typed that in. “Oh for pity’s sake,” she said to the screen
… “pour some cold liquid into a very hot pan to get up all the
brown bits stuck to the bottom of the pan” … she did that all the
time when she made gravy. Another fancy word for something simple.
Maggie was starting to feel confident, then she moved on to Jambon
Chevre.
“Why, it’s just ham
pinwheels!” Maggie cried when she saw the recipe. Even with goat
cheese, she figured they could handle that.
Now the Duck Confit,
pronounced in her mind, of course, as “con-fit.”
Maggie’s heart sank.
First of all, it was pronounced “con-fee” – just thinking that
made her feel foreign. But the worst part was the total prep time –
11 hours. Eleven hours? For duck? She read on. Plus overnight in the
fridge? Basically, if she understood what she was reading, it was all
about cooking duck in its own fat, for a very long time. Any leftover
fat could be used to make Pommes Frites … that was another thing on
the list. “Oh, great,” she said after looking that up, “it’s
just French fries.”
On to the crème
brulee. Again it was nothing more than a fancy pudding, except they
had to use a propane torch, for crying out loud. Maggie knew her
husband had one in the barn somewhere; she hoped it would do. Maggie
wasn’t feeling very friendly toward the French at that point. She
hoped this April was worth all the fuss and bother.
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